The long jacket style was prominent at the recent fashion weeks, even though it’s been around for a while now. By long jackets I mean front open- below mid-calf length- over layers. Rohit Bal has incorporated long jackets in his collections since 2009 and Manish Malhotra’s 2012 was a trendsetter for it’s kalidar full-length kurta jackets. But it has never been as omnipresent as now, from modern day designers like Rahul Mishra to industry veterans like JJ Valaya had a few pieces each in their collection.
The designs have evolved over the years- silhouettes, embroidery motifs, fabrics and under layer styling. There are umpteen design options available for both panelled jackets and kurta style long jackets among the recent collections. Take your pick.
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Manish Malhotra’s jackets were among the few designs that were made on net/tulle. Sabyasachi Mukherjee, tarun Tahiliani and Varun Bahl were the other three designers who had heavily embroidered net jackets. The embroidery motifs were mainly floral for all with a few bird designs in Manish’s show. If it’s net it has to be heavily embroidered, gone are the heydays of net fabric.
The other fabric bases included velvet, silk and brocade. Rohit Bal’s showcase had jackets in all three fabrics and over six silhouette patterns. He had straight long jackets to varying flares for paneled jackets. Angrakha like overlapped torsos, broad band collars and loop buttons till waist were some of the striking design features in Rohit Bal’s jackets.
Gaurav Gupta’s curved hem jackets were a continuation of his past two collections. The primary differences in his designs were the length and necklines. Most designs were fitted till the waist and then flared out depending on their under-lying skirt or bottoms. He had metallic floral and abstract embroideries along with a few light gold thread embroidered jackets.
One of my personal favorite was Rahul Mishra’s woven full length brocade jacket!
JJ Valaya’s palatial bride will be spoilt for choice among his numerous long jacket variations in fabric and designs. Tarun Tahiliani and Sabyasachi’s designs shown above are very similar to their 2014 collections.
There was an old world charm to Reynu Tandon’s gold embroidered velvet jacket, Tarun Tahiliani’s jacket and Rimple narula’s silk jacket with zardozi embroidery.
Suneet Verma and Varun Bhal’s fall-winter 2015 collection showcased in March had long jackets in their collections too. Suneet Verma’s latest bridal fashion week collection had even more long jacket designs to choose from.
There were a few long jackets that stood out from the rest for their modernity in style. Among them were Manish Malhotra’s teal green bird motif silk jacket and his wide front open stripe embroidered tulle jacket. Gaurav Gupta’s organza fitted till the hip jacket with wines from the neck embroidery was my second favorite.
You could experiment with the length of these over layers. If you are short go for longer below the ankle length jackets- any shorter and it will make you look boxy. For taller women you could go as short as below mid-calf and pair the jacket with an equally interesting bottom.
A few casual and draped versions of the long jacket. These can be easily styled with both ethnic and western ensembles.
When you look at Rajesh Pratap Singh’s double sided waterfall jacket it’s easy to imagine wearing the same with a lehenga skirt and blouse. Gaurav Gupta himself has styled similar jackets with both basic trousers and embroidered lehenga skirts. All this just goes to show that a long jacket need not be worn with just ethnic wear garments, but can be styled with western silhouettes too.
I believe if you could style a garment more than three ways it’s worth the investment and would love to purchase a long jacket soon. Let me know what you think of this trend. Enjoy! 🙂