In the post on A-line Cape Designing I had discussed the steps to making a cape pattern and stitching an unlined cape. In today’s post I am outlining the steps to stitching a cape with a lining.
The choice of having a lining or not is dependent on your fabric of choice. You will require a lining in the following scenarios:
– if the fabric’s back side is not pretty enough to be exposed
– the backside of an embroidered fabric hurts the skin
– the fabric is too thin to stand on it’s own
– the fabric is thin and the garment below is visible
– if you want the lining as an added design feature.
Main fabric- 1 meter for cape length of maximum 18″ (minimum 38″ width)
Lining fabric- 1 meter (minimum 38″ width)
Sewing thread matching the main fabric- 1 piece
Cape Pattern (refer the previous post on how to make it)
Tailor’s chalk/ fabric marker
T-pins/ pearl pins
I have used a blouse-piece that came with a brocade saree. The blouse piece was 1 meter in length and had brocade borders on both vertical sides.
Keeping the grain of the main fabric vertically straight place the cape pattern and draw the half back, then invert the pattern and keeping the straight edge lines aligned draw the other half in continuation. Next draw one half for the front keeping a minimum of 1/2″ distance all around from any other pattern marks. Invert the pattern and draw the other half. Using a tracing wheel mark the front neckline (this is the lower of the two neckline marks) on both main fabric pieces.
I wanted to use the brocade border at the hem of my final design. So, I subtracted the 2 3/4″ border height from the total length of the pattern and traced it onto the main fabric.
Trace the pattern onto the vertically straight lining fabric. Add the 1/2″ seam allowances on all sides of the traced patterns of both main and lining fabrics. If you plan to make only a lined cape you could add this 1/2″ to the paper-pattern itself before tracing. Now cut the main and lining fabrics. You will have a total of 6 cut pieces.
Since I was using the brocade border only on the shell/main fabric I kept the total length of the pattern intact while tracing on the lining fabric. Note I had also added 1/2″ seam allowance to the hem of the main fabric even though I had reduced the length. The brocade border was cut such that it had 1/2″ or more of allowance on both sides to be stitched.
Pin along the side uptill the neckline keeping both the front and back lining fabric pieces aligned. Stitch along the pinned lines.
Next I attached the brocade border to the main fabric.
Finger press the border seam putting the seam allowance/excess fabric towards the bottom. Next facing the right side of the main fabric with the right side of the lining fabric pin along all sides. Make sure the traced lines of both main fabric and lining fabric match each other.
Stitch along the pinned lines. Leave an opening of around 3″ at either the hem or center-front/ front opening of the garment.
It was easier for me to leave the opening at the centre-front because I wanted the borders to be finished neatly at the ending of the wave design.
Once stitched make slashes and angled cutaways the corners to remove excess fabric.
Invert the cape through the opening, bringing the insides out. Once inverted iron all the edges neatly and iron the whole cape too.
Hand sew the opening neatly so that no stitch lines are visible, try a tailor’s hand hem. Make a loop on the front right hand side of the center-front and a button onto the front left side. I used the same sewing thread to make a coiled loop and added a pink fabric button for the closure.
Stitching a cape with lining is as easy, if not easier, than finishing a cape with embroidered edges. I had made this lined cape mainly for the tutorial, but it ended up so pretty that I plan to wear it with one of my mom’s saree. If you have any queries regarding the making and designing of a cape or want styling suggestions with the one you have made, leave me a comment. 🙂